Having spent a successful long weekend on Texel, in May 2016, I was eager to explore other possibilities in the Netherlands in the spring. Looking at the gaps in my very low Dutch list (232 when starting the trip) a visit to 'The Top of Holland' was very appealing. The wetlands of north Groningen hold a number of good birds, but as a non-driver somewhat out of my reach without vehicular assistance.
I was put in touch with Martijn Bot, the proprietor of Birding Holland, and a tailor-made weekend focusing on the best areas was too good a chance to miss, so I enrolled on the trip. Travelling this far, it made sense to make a week of it and I added three days on Texel.
I departed from Harwich as usual, on the night time crossing on June 1st. My good friend Jonathan Janse had offered to show me some species in Drenthe, which would give me some new Dutch ticks that wouldn't be likely in Groningen. So, on the Friday morning I took the train north from Rotterdam, which cut a rather scenic route through the forests of Utrecht and I was met by Jonathan at Zwolle in the north east of the province.
After a short drive we parked in an area of mixed woodland and heathland at Doldersum and was reminiscent of some of the New Forest. The usual species of the habitat, including Tree Pipit, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Cuckoo and Yellowhammer were all in the immediate vicinity in varying numbers. On our walk we added Short-toed Treecreeper, Marsh Tit, at least two Firecrests and Crested Tits. After scanning an open area with scattered hawthorns, Jonathan picked up a male Red-backed Shrike and we had good views in the scope, and before we knew where we were we were watching two pairs catching beetles and flying from tree to tree!
After driving a few hundred metres we checked out another area with grassland and bushes where we had a distant Raven, Stonechat and plenty of insect life, including a freshly emerged male Black-tailed Skimmer.
Black-tailed Skimmer
Returning to the car we continued to a series of pools in an agricultural area at the reserve of Diependal. After walking though a 100 metre long eerily cold tunnel, cut through the bank, we ascended the spiral staircase of the view point. Here we were greeted by a pair of Barn Swallows that had took up residence in the hide and were entirely unphased by our presence.
Barn Swallow
From the hide, we added Little Grebe, Gadwall, Garganey, Spoonbill, Marsh Harrier, Common Whitethroat as well as a Red-necked Grebe at the rear of the far pool. This is the only breeding location for the species in the Netherlands. Jonathan said that they sometimes come quite close. This one didn't but was a good Dutch tick for me never the less.
Typical habitat around north west Drenthe
A pool at Diependal
After being entertained by a male Yellowhammer, we continued to the border with Friesland and the reserve of Fochteloƫrveen. Here we had a male Bluethroat singing from a reed bed by the roadside. A scan of the fields on the far side of the reserve quickly revealed our main target bird and we had scope views of eight Cranes. These were a group of non-breeding birds that have lingered on the reserve and was a nice way to wind up the afternoon. After a food stop at Roden, Jonathan kindly dropped me off at my hotel in the semi rural village of Aduard on the edge of Groningen.
Yellowhammer
On the Saturday morning, I located the one other participant of the trip, another Martijn from Rotterdam and we were picked up after breakfast by Martijn Bot. It was a fairly short drive to a complex of pools and lakes at Oostpolder. One of the first birds we saw was a White-tailed Sea Eagle sitting in a tree on the far side of a field. There was no way of getting closer views, but Martijn felt sure we would get further opportunities. We drove slowly along the access track and had good views of several stock species, including a spiffing flava Wagtail.
Common Redshank
Blue-headed Wagtail
Sedge Warbler
From the car, we walked along the track that had pools to the left and a reed bed to the right. The area was teeming with birds. There were Avocets and Black-necked Grebes everywhere, along with several Whiskered Terns, Black-headed Gulls, Gadwall, Shoveler, Garganey, Common Terns, Marsh Warbler and Reed Warblers. It was spectacularly good.
Whiskered Terns
As we returned to the car and Martijn supplied coffee, the Sea Eagle did a fly by. Unfortunately it seemed determined to keep its distance, but it was a better view than the haystack in a tree. I enjoyed the bird in the bins for a while before getting a record shot. The drumming of a Common Snipe, evocative of the olden days in my home county provided a beguiling display as we sipped coffee and munched on stroop waffles.
White-tailed Sea Eagle
In the grip of a quite nasty bout of hay fever, Martijn made a small detour to a pharmacy in the local village and drugged to the eye balls with some nose drops and tablets we continued to Onnerpolder with the sun now blazing down.
We were greeted by up to 20 pairs of Black Terns dipping into the pools at close quarters, although the light was a little too strong for perfect photography. None the less, I managed one or two acceptable record shots. These efforts were punctuated by a flyby Cuckoo, which offered itself as a nice image for the album.
Black Tern
Cuckoo
Watchpoint at Onnerpolder
As well as the rich bird life, the area wasn't short on interesting invertebrates and it would have been churlish to have not taken a few photos.
Eristalis similis
Red-eyed Damselfly
Variable Damselfly
We moved to the German border in the afternoon, where we connected with an interesting 2nd cy Montagu's Harrier, a Hen Harrier and numerous Marsh Harriers. While we had lunch (a generous picnic provided by Martijn), we had Bluethroat, Yellow Wagtail and 'quipping' Quail for company.
Failing to obtain the expected close views of any Monty's we headed back to Onnerpolder in the late afternoon, where an adult White-winged Black Tern put in a brief appearance. It was initially relatively close, but quickly gained height and was lost to view over the woods. We also had a Whiskered Tern here.
A further stop on the opposite side of Oostpolder from the morning, we added three Spoonbill, two Black-winged Stilts and a very obliging White Stork before returning to the hotel.
A further stop on the opposite side of Oostpolder from the morning, we added three Spoonbill, two Black-winged Stilts and a very obliging White Stork before returning to the hotel.
White Stork
After a shower, a quick nap, dinner and a very cold bottle of Heineken, we were out again at 9pm, for a short drive to the local reserve of Ederwolder within a stone's throw of the city. Within five minutes of leaving the car we had had Grasshopper Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Savi's Warbler and a booming Bittern! A pleasant evening walk added at least another four Savi's, Water Rail, a Goshawk and a rather early gathering of around 5,000 Common Starlings murmurating in the gloom. All splendid stuff.
The Sunday began with the short drive north to the famous reserve of Lauwersmeer. The first stop was by a lake and extensive reed bed, where Bearded Tits were numerous, though typically hard to photograph. Sometimes and this was one time, where it was nice just to enjoy the 'ping-ping' of birds as they 'hopped' around the vegetation. The lake hosted good numbers of Shoveler, Gadwall, a few Eurasian Wigeon, Greylag Geese and three Greater White-fronted Geese. On the walk back to the car, one or two Bluethroats popped up, and sang occasionally but alas, not for the camera. An April trip required methinks.
A typical wetland habitat in the Lauwersmeer
A drive around the area produced four late Goldeneye on a smaller lake, and in some woodland and Scrub we had Spotted Flycatcher, Lesser Whitethroat, Willow Warbler and Short-toed Treecreeper.
We made another stop by an area of open grassland and forest with broad rides. Here we had common woodland species, including Goldcrest and Great Spotted Woodpecker and a very vocal Icterine Warbler, which showed well eventually from the upper branches of its tree. On the walk back, we had particularly good views of a male Marsh Harrier. We paused for another hearty lunch where both Marsh Warbler and Nightingale sang from the nearby scrub.
Marsh Harrier
The Botmobile
After lunch we drove to a nearby area of cereal fields and scattered copse. A male Montagu's Harrier appeared close to the car, but chose to do so just as another vehicle was behind us, which meant we weren't able to get a photo, as Martijn parked safely. Fortunately the female showed very well and we watched her for half an hour as it took a few sticks to the nest and hunted overhead.
Montagu's Harrier
Moving to the north coast, we crossed the border into Friesland. Here we had Common Tern, Cormorant and Little Egret. Another area close by consisted of a series of flashes and flood pools, where we had Great White Egret, at least 1000 Black-tailed Godwits and a scattering of Avocet, Ruff in their arrestingly beautiful breeding plumage. An added bonus was a male Red-necked Phalarope that was pirouetting in the shallows, plus Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Greenshank, Ringed Plover and Little Ringed Plover.
Lapwing
Black-tailed Godwits
We returned to the hotel in the early evening and had a beer over the bird log. I had added 10 Dutch ticks on the trip so far and after saying farewell to Martijn Bot, had dinner and another beer; watched a bit of the One Love Manchester concert and then an early night.
I was up at 5am on the Monday morning and caught a six o'cock train to Utrecht where I changed for Den Helder. It was still wall to wall sunshine, as it had been since the Friday and I made my way to the sun deck once on the 15 minute ferry to Texel. Both Sandwich Terns and Common Terns were fishing just off shore as we approached 'T Horntje.
A search for owls proved unsuccessful but to be fair, it wasn't the best time of the year for finding them and I returned to my room just before midnight and a welcome can of Amstel.
Tuesday saw a break in the weather. I had a pre-breakfast walk around 6.30am in the direction of De Krimbos holiday park. I was rewarded with very close views of a purring Turtle Dove, but I had stupidly left my camera in my room. I consoled myself with excellent views of this beautiful and threatened species.
After breakfast, I asked Ger to drop me off at the lighthouse and I headed to the beach and set up the scope under the shelter of the 'pier' that supports the cafe there. I soon located half a dozen Little Terns fishing just off shore and I had a single adult Gannet move south.
A stroll around the lighthouse produced all three hirrundines and Common Swifts swooping over the headland and a very smart Meadow Pipit at close quarters.
After dodging a shower in the lee of a Hawthorn, I explored the bushes around De Tuintjes. Here I had nice views of a male Northern Wheatear, a pair of Stonechats, several Linnets, Common Whitethroat and a rather confiding Willow Warbler.
After a coffee and Apple pie at Cap Noord (Not a touch on the De Robbenjagger but they were closed) I scoped the sea and had two drake Common Scoters heading south. The weather had improved, so I took the opportunity to photograph the old groyne at De Cocksdorp and an approachable Turnstone.
I was up at 5am on the Monday morning and caught a six o'cock train to Utrecht where I changed for Den Helder. It was still wall to wall sunshine, as it had been since the Friday and I made my way to the sun deck once on the 15 minute ferry to Texel. Both Sandwich Terns and Common Terns were fishing just off shore as we approached 'T Horntje.
Common Tern
My host Ger Monterney met me off the ship and after the briefest stop at my digs, I was in the field again. A walk along the sea wall that leads to the north of the island proved to be an excellent way of getting good photographs of Sandwich Terns as they returned to their nests following marine feeding sorties. Oystercatchers were equally obliging to the camera.
Oystercatcher
Sandwich Tern
I had a late afternoon lunch at the excellent Robbenjager restaurant and then spent the afternoon walking around the fields and pasture to the east of De Cocksdorp but saw nothing beyond the inevitable Marsh Harriers and common breeding species.
After a nap, I met Jos van den Berg in the village at 8.30pm and we drove the few miles south to the Staartbossen. This is the only area of forest on Texel and also holds the typical species on the various swathes of heathland.
We began hitting the good birds straight away with Cuckoo, Tree Pipit and Wood Lark soon in the bag. A stonking male Common Redstart showed very well, with just about enough light for me to obtain a record shot of this beautiful bird.
Common Redstart
There was a pause in proceedings as the light fell and we waited on a bench for part two of the evening to kick in. After about 15 minutes, the first Nightjar began to chur followed by two more and as we tried to pin one down, Woodcock were virtually flying around our heads.
We managed to get remarkably close to a Nightjar and had a male perched on a branch pine as it sang.
Video (audio) of Churring Nightjar
A search for owls proved unsuccessful but to be fair, it wasn't the best time of the year for finding them and I returned to my room just before midnight and a welcome can of Amstel.
Tuesday saw a break in the weather. I had a pre-breakfast walk around 6.30am in the direction of De Krimbos holiday park. I was rewarded with very close views of a purring Turtle Dove, but I had stupidly left my camera in my room. I consoled myself with excellent views of this beautiful and threatened species.
After breakfast, I asked Ger to drop me off at the lighthouse and I headed to the beach and set up the scope under the shelter of the 'pier' that supports the cafe there. I soon located half a dozen Little Terns fishing just off shore and I had a single adult Gannet move south.
A stroll around the lighthouse produced all three hirrundines and Common Swifts swooping over the headland and a very smart Meadow Pipit at close quarters.
Meadow Pipit
After dodging a shower in the lee of a Hawthorn, I explored the bushes around De Tuintjes. Here I had nice views of a male Northern Wheatear, a pair of Stonechats, several Linnets, Common Whitethroat and a rather confiding Willow Warbler.
Linnet
Willow Warbler
After a coffee and Apple pie at Cap Noord (Not a touch on the De Robbenjagger but they were closed) I scoped the sea and had two drake Common Scoters heading south. The weather had improved, so I took the opportunity to photograph the old groyne at De Cocksdorp and an approachable Turnstone.
De Cocksdorp looking north east
Turnstone
The improvement in the weather was short-lived and though sunny, the wind whipped up and made standing up on the little jetty at De Cocksdorp almost impossible, so I returned to the safety of the village. The wind was a precursor to the rain and the afternoon became a challenge with a force 9 gale blowing with intermittent showers.
I had another walk in De Krimbos in the late afternoon in hope of relocating the Turtle Dove, but the noise of the wind through the trees and the weather generally made birding almost impossible. I gave up around tea time and after walking many miles, had a slap up meal at 'T Bikkelement.
It was a wild evening with the gale blowing a rose bush against my window all night.
My final day began with an early walk to the sea wall, where around 20 Knot were flying around looking for somewhere to settle at high tide and two female Eider were huddled with a little creche by the shoreline.
After breakfast, I asked Ger to take me to the centre of the island to look for Black-tailed Godwits in their breeding area. We went via the east coast where I had a single Arctic Tern and got a nice photo of an Avocet at Utopia. Moving to De Staart, we drove along a grassy track, where I connected with a pair of godwits with a few days old chick and an exceptionally confiding Little Egret in the adjacent creek.
Avocet
Black-tailed Godwits
Little Egret
We drove back via Oudeschilde and its picturesque little harbour, before heading back to De Cocksdorp. I had a coffee and cake in the new bakery before getting the Texelhopper back to the ferry and my journey home. I ended the trip on 140 species, which I think is good, as I didn't 'chase' species for a huge list and 11 new ones for my Dutch list.
Oudeschilde harbour
I would like to offer my heartfelt thanks to:
Jonathan Janse
Ger Monterney
Mute Swan | Cygnus olor |
Greylag Goose | Anser anser |
Greater White-fronted Goose | Anser albifrons |
Canada Goose | Branta canadensis |
Barnacle Goose | Branta leucopsis |
Common Shelduck | Tadorna tadorna |
Common Pochard | Aythya ferina |
Tufted Duck | Aythya fuligula |
Common Eider | Somateria mollissima |
Common Goldeneye | Bucephala clangula |
Gadwall | Anas strepera |
Eurasian Wigeon | Anas penelope |
Northern Shoveler | Anas clypeata |
Mallard | Anas platyrhynchos |
Garganey | Anas querquedula |
Common Teal | Anas crecca |
Common Quail | Coturnix coturnix |
Northern Gannet | Morus bassanus |
Great Cormorant | Phalacrocorax carbo |
Eurasian Bittern | Botaurus stellaris |
Little Egret | Egretta garzetta |
Great Egret | Casmerodius albus |
Grey Heron | Ardea cinerea |
White Stork | Ciconia ciconia |
Eurasian Spoonbill | Platalea leucorodia |
Little Grebe | Tachybaptus ruficollis |
Great Crested Grebe | Podiceps cristatus |
Red-necked Grebe | Podiceps grisegena |
Black-necked Grebe | Podiceps nigricollis |
Western Marsh Harrier | Circus aeruginosus |
Northern Harrier | Circus cyaneus |
Montagu's Harrier | Circus pygargus |
Northern Goshawk | Accipiter gentilis |
Common Buzzard | Buteo buteo |
Common Kestrel | Falco tinnunculus |
Peregrine Falcon | Falco peregrinus |
Water Rail | Rallus aquaticus |
Common Moorhen | Gallinula chloropus |
Eurasian Coot | Fulica atra |
Common Crane | Grus grus |
Eurasian Oystercatcher | Haematopus ostralegus |
Black-winged Stilt | Himantopus himantopus |
Pied Avocet | Recurvirostra avosetta |
Little Ringed Plover | Charadrius dubius |
Common Ringed Plover | Charadrius hiaticula |
Northern Lapwing | Vanellus vanellus |
Red Knot | Calidris canutus |
Little Stint | Calidris minuta |
Curlew Sandpiper | Calidris ferruginea |
Dunlin | Calidris alpina |
Ruff | Philomachus pugnax |
Common Snipe | Gallinago gallinago |
Eurasian Woodcock | Scolopax rusticola |
Black-tailed Godwit | Limosa limosa |
Eurasian Whimbrel | Numenius phaeopus |
Eurasian Curlew | Numenius arquata |
Common Greenshank | Tringa nebularia |
Common Redshank | Tringa totanus |
Ruddy Turnstone | Arenaria interpres |
Red-necked Phalarope | Phalaropus lobatus |
Common Black-headed Gull | Chroicocephalus ridibundus |
Little Gull | Hydrocoloeus minutus |
Mew Gull | Larus canus |
Lesser Black-backed Gull | Larus fuscus |
European Herring Gull | Larus argentatus |
Great Black-backed Gull | Larus marinus |
Little Tern | Sternula albifrons |
Whiskered Tern | Chlidonias hybrida |
Black Tern | Chlidonias niger |
White-winged Tern | Chlidonias leucopterus |
Sandwich Tern | Sterna sandvicensis |
Common Tern | Sterna hirundo |
Arctic Tern | Sterna paradisaea |
Stock Dove | Columba oenas |
Common Wood Pigeon | Columba palumbus |
Eurasian Collared Dove | Streptopelia decaocto |
European Turtle Dove | Streptopelia turtur |
Common Cuckoo | Cuculus canorus |
European Nightjar | Caprimulgus europaeus |
Common Swift | Apus apus |
Great Spotted Woodpecker | Dendrocopos major |
Red-backed Shrike | Lanius collurio |
Eurasian Jay | Garrulus glandarius |
Eurasian Magpie | Pica pica |
Western Jackdaw | Corvus monedula |
Rook | Corvus frugilegus |
Carrion Crow | Corvus corone |
Northern Raven | Corvus corax |
Goldcrest | Regulus regulus |
Firecrest | Regulus ignicapilla |
Blue Tit | Cyanistes caeruleus |
Great Tit | Parus major |
European Crested Tit | Lophophanes cristatus |
Marsh Tit | Poecile palustris |
Bearded Reedling | Panurus biarmicus |
Woodlark | Lullula arborea |
Eurasian Skylark | Alauda arvensis |
Sand Martin | Riparia riparia |
Barn Swallow | Hirundo rustica |
Common House Martin | Delichon urbicum |
Long-tailed Bushtit | Aegithalos caudatus |
Common Chiffchaff | Phylloscopus collybita |
Willow Warbler | Phylloscopus trochilus |
Lesser Whitethroat | Sylvia curruca |
Common Whitethroat | Sylvia communis |
Garden Warbler | Sylvia borin |
Eurasian Blackcap | Sylvia atricapilla |
Common Grasshopper Warbler | Locustella naevia |
Savi's Warbler | Locustella luscinioides |
Icterine Warbler | Hippolais icterina |
Marsh Warbler | Acrocephalus palustris |
Eurasian Reed Warbler | Acrocephalus scirpaceus |
Sedge Warbler | Acrocephalus schoenobaenus |
Eurasian Nuthatch | Sitta europaea |
Short-toed Treecreeper | Certhia brachydactyla |
Winter Wren | Troglodytes troglodytes |
Common Starling | Sturnus vulgaris |
Common Blackbird | Turdus merula |
Song Thrush | Turdus philomelos |
Mistle Thrush | Turdus viscivorus |
Spotted Flycatcher | Muscicapa striata |
European Robin | Erithacus rubecula |
Common Nightingale | Luscinia megarhynchos |
Bluethroat | Luscinia svecica |
Common Redstart | Phoenicurus phoenicurus |
European Stonechat | Saxicola rubicola |
Northern Wheatear | Oenanthe oenanthe |
Dunnock | Prunella modularis |
House Sparrow | Passer domesticus |
Eurasian Tree Sparrow | Passer montanus |
Blue-headed Wagtail | Motacilla flava |
White Wagtail | Motacilla alba |
Tree Pipit | Anthus trivialis |
Meadow Pipit | Anthus pratensis |
Common Chaffinch | Fringilla coelebs |
European Greenfinch | Chloris chloris |
European Goldfinch | Carduelis carduelis |
Common Linnet | Carduelis cannabina |
Yellowhammer | Emberiza citrinella |
Common Reed Bunting | Emberiza schoeniclus |
Looks like a good trip with 140 secies! Could even have been better with a little more cooperation from the weather.
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