I've been birding in the Netherlands for 10 years now, and for the last three three years, visited twice a year. With my Dutch list just over 250, I was a few more trips to the 300 land mark. I needed to mop up a few easy ones and hopefully jam a few goodies, to keep the ticks coming.
I began planning the trip last autumn and put together an intensive four day itinerary with some wiggle room for what was an often unpredictable time of the year.
So, on the Wednesday I arrived on the overnight ferry from Harwich and took the now familiar journey north from Hoek van Holland to Texel. Armed with the preposterously cheap 18 Euro day ticket, I made the 90 mile journey to Den Helder, thence the 15 minute journey to Texel. On the sun deck I was entertained by Common Terns as birds flew alongside the bow of the ship. The light was perfect and I managed some crisp shots.
Common Tern
I had arranged to meet Klaas de Jong outside the Bird Information Centre in de Cocksdorp and was dropped off there by my friend Ger Monterney who had kindly collected me from the ferry.
Klaas runs his popular 'Bird Safaris' regularly via his small minibus and after picking up a few other participants, we were away. First off, We connected with an Iberian Chiffchaff in the woodland that runs between the coast and the seaside resort of De Koog. The bird could be heard singing from the road and was soon located in the canopies of the oaks. I had great views of the bird in the bins initially but it moved to a poor position, which allowed only a very dodgy record shot. This was my second 'IbChiff' after one on Texel in May 2016. There have been something over 40 records of the species in the Netherlands and all but 10 of these have been in this century.
Iberian Chiffchaff
Leaving De Koog, we headed south to the Horsmeertjes, an area of scrub and small lakes, opposite the coastal inlet of De Mokbuy, where there were a few waders including Grey Plovers and Turnstones in full summer plumage, Bar-tailed Godwits and a selection of commoner species, as well as some lingering Dark-bellied Brent Geese. Spoonbills are a familiar sight on Texel, and I got a nice shot of two in flight.
Spoonbills
After a walk around the bushes, where we had brief views of a Bluethroat as well as Linnet, Common Whitethroat and a single Shoveler on the lake. We were supplied with a welcome coffee and cinnamon cake and then worked our way back north, pausing by a field flash along De Staart, where there was a single Whimbrel and a couple of Ruff. However, closer to the road were a pair of Black-tailed Godwits and I got a decent shot of one of them. This is the national species of the Netherlands and Texel is one of the best places in Europe to see the birds in the breeding season at close quarters.
Black-tailed Godwit
Continuing along De Staart, we turned to the north and drove the short distance to Westerkolk, where there is a hide (one of two on the island), which looks over two shallow pools. Here there were a nice selection of waders, with several Ruff (including a nice male in breeding plumage), a Greenshank, three Temminck's Stint, a Little Stint, one Wood Sandpiper and a few commoner species. The ever present and ubiquitous Oystercatcher, were putting on a show defending their territory against the gulls.
Waders at Westerkolk
Oystercatcher
After dropping off the other people, Klaas drove back to De Cocksdorp, and just south of the village a male Marsh Harrier flew right next to the minibus, allowing some remarkably close photos. Without doubt the best views I've ever had of this beautiful bird.
Marsh Harrier
After thanking Klaas for a nice afternoon, I joined my friend Ger and his partner Aafke for a beer before catching a Texelhopper back to the ferry. I caught the 8.03pm train by the skin of my teeth and changing at Castricum arrived at the tiny station at Driehuis. The state owned railways in the Netherlands are super-efficient and inexpensive. As a regular rail traveller in the UK, they are in stark contrast to our own farcical, shambolic and inordinately expensive trains.
Calling a taxi I was driven the three km to my hotel in Ijmuiden for a two nights stay. I was provided with a coffee and cookies, and I turned in.
After a very ample breakfast, I was picked up by Leo Boon, who does bird guiding for Birding Holland, run by Martijn Bot. The idea was that for two days we would go for everything and anything. We decided to go for the furthest bird first and so set off for the village of Raalte in the province of Overijssel. A River Warbler had been present since the 13th May and was by all accounts, nailed-on. It was a 95 mile drive, and this translated to a two and a half hour drive after negotiating the Amsterdam by-pass at rush hour.
We arrived at the parking place, which was a field adjacent to a farm, and it was a mere 50 yards walk to the bird, which could be heard almost immediately. After watching the bird in the undergrowth, the River Warbler flew to the top of a patch of Willows and sang in the open for several minutes. There have been more than 80 records of the species in the Netherlands, with well over half the records coming since the year 2000. I had fantastic views in the bins and acquired some acceptable record shots.
At the same site, we added a single Willow Tit and the first of many Marsh Warblers, which are remarkably confiding here. In addition to the birds, we had several Scarce Chacers and a few Banded Demoiselles.
River Warbler
Marsh Warbler
Banded Demoiselle - weidebeekjuffer - Calopteryx splendens
Scarce Chaser - bruine korenbout - Libullela fulva
We stopped at a local petrol station for coffee and a cake, and then headed south west into the bordering province of Gelderland. A Collared Flycatcher, initially easy to see had become difficult but it was more or less en route to our next stop. We parked in an area of woodland adjacent to heathland in the rustic area of the Veluwe, a relatively sparsely populated area in the centre of the country. The Collared didn't show, despite a thorough search, but we had a single female Pied Flycatcher, several Spotted Flycatchers, numerous Short-toed Tree Creepers, a single Tree Pipit and a Crested Tit.
With the trip list boosted, we drove a short distance and parked in a tract of mixed woodland, with well-marked paths and trails. A Wood Warbler was singing right next to the car, but we had a rarer bird in our sights. After a walk of one kilometre, the unmistakable song of a Red-breasted Flycatcher rung out. The bird had been found by a birder on his regular mountain bike run and was reportedly showing well, if not widely reported.
After a search, during which it went quiet, the bird sang again from the upper canopies. We walked up a slope in the woods, where we could get on the same level as the bird. The light wasn't the best, but I obtained a fair record shot of this lovely bird.
Red-breasted Flycatcher
Our intention to photograph the Wood Warbler was thwarted by the fact that the bird had stopped singing when we got back to the car, although this we saw a single Hawfinch in the car park, briefly. We headed west, and crossed into the next Province of Flevoland. An hour later, we arrived at the Veluwemeer, a man-made lake, which is part of the Flevopolder created in 1957. Here we had six Greater Flamingos, 63 Red-crested Pochard, as well as a single Icterine Warbler. We watched the flamingos for half an hour in the scope and then headed back to the car, where there were family parties of Barnacle Geese and a few Tree Sparrows.
Greater Flamingos
Red-crested Pochard
Driving into North Holland our last but one stop of the day was near Hilversum, in an area of meadows and damp grassland, criss-crossed by numerous channels. Here we saw Common Buzzard, a Greater White-fronted Goose. After a bit of a wait, we eventually got a Purple Heron in flight, but we couldn't relocate the bird, after it went down. The heron was my fourth Dutch trip of the trip after the River Warbler, Flamingo and the Pochard.
Greater White-fronted Goose
Meadow Pipit
Confident that we were 'cooking on gas', we made one last stop on the outskirts of Amsterdam, in a suburban area with scattered fields and some wetland. After a 10 minute walk, we could hear the arresting song of a Great Reed Warbler. The bird's red mouth could be seen from some distance as it sang from the front of a small reedbed. We had fantastic views, but it was now past 8pm and the light wasn't brilliant. However, I was more than happy with my record shot. We could have watched the bird for hours, but not wanting to miss my evening meal, we headed back to the car with five Dutch ticks in the day.
Great Reed Warbler
Leo dropped me off at my hotel, the Augusta in Ijmuiden around 9pm. The hotel has a very old fashioned feel to it, with lots of heavy wooden doors and leather sofas. The decor might be a little underwhelming, but their chef can't half cook. I had the baked cod with steamed fennel, green beans and a side order of chips. The food was superb! I opted for the Texels beer. The first one didn't touch the sides, so I had another with my meal.
On the Friday, we set of at 7.15 and headed to the coast, just to the south of the town. The hoped for Rosefinch had apparently cleared out, but we added Grasshopper Warbler, Nightingale, a male Common Redstart and Lesser Whitethroat to the trip list. Wasting no more time here, we headed south, stopping at Hazerswoude following reports of a Cattle Egret, but this appeared to have gone. A minor consolation was exceptionally good views of a White Stork on the nest, as well as several Common Swifts and among the insect life, a Red-eyed Damselfly.
White Stork
Red-eyed Damselfly - grote roodoogjuffer - Erythromma najas
Continuing over the border into South Holland, we spent most of the rest of the day waiting for a Little Bittern to fly to or from their nest. They never did. However, the little reserve at Severnhuizen provided some of the best value of the trip with breathtakingly, gob-smacking views of a male White-spotted Bluethroat, exceptional views of Reed Warbler (the first time I have ever photographed this species), as well as great views of Cuckoo. At one point, two males were singing within feet of each other and when they came together, one of them was heard to give a low 'rumbling call' something I have never heard before. I also saw a female entering a Reed Warbler's nest.
In addition, in and around the area were several Savi's Warblers, a Black Tern, and another close encounter with a Marsh Harrier; this time a first summer male.
As usual, I was always on the lookout for odonata and several Green-eyed Hawkers were on the wing.
White-spotted Bluethroat
Reed Warbler
Common Tern
Marsh Harrier
Cuckoo
Green-eyed Hawker - vroege glazenmaker - Aeshna isoceles
We left the site at 5pm and following an unsuccessful go at a well-known site for Little Owl, Leo dropped me at my hotel in the small town of Rijswijk near the Hague.
My hotel for the night was another rather dark place with just a hint of Scooby Doo. That said, the room was bright and modern. Putting my camera batteries on charge, I headed for the nearby old town, where there are a plethora of restaurants. I liked the look of De Wits, a small restaurant with lots of outside seating. It was a warm evening, so I found a single table and ordered a bottle of Affligem Tripel. At 9.6% abv, it fell into the 'falling down water' category, so I had the one and ate light, given that I needed to be up at 5am.
I ordered the carpaccio of smoked salmon with garlic dressing, green beans and a side of chips. The food was absolutely amazing. I mean top drawer fine dining.
Not for the faint-hearted
The next morning, I was up at the crack of dawn and was picked up by my good friend Wietz Janse, who lives in Rijswijk. We had an early morning go at the Little Bitterns, without success, so headed for the coast of North Holland at Castricum. The area reminded me of Gib Point, with the addition of numerous Nightingales and a Cormorant colony.
Following the path through the dunes, we had a Common Buzzard and a few common migrants, until we reached a small patch of scrub on the other side of a well-vegetated stream. A male Common Rosefinch was in full song, giving amazing views. We had the bird to ourselves for 20 minutes before it dropped into the bushes. Since we had arrived there, a Dutch Bird Alert for a Lesser Grey Shrike had come up for Texel. As this would be a Dutch tick for me and with the chance of other good birds we opted to head north and get the 11am ferry.
Common Rosefinch
As we headed back to the car, another alert came up, reporting an eagle sp. possibly a Greater Spotted Eagle not far from our very spot. Wietze called the observer, who gave directions to where he had seen the bird and we headed to the area and scanned the surrounding countryside. It had been going north, and I mused that it would probably arrive on Texel.
We caught the ferry on schedule and headed for the island. The sun desk was packed with tourists, so we relaxed in the spacious lounge and had a coffee. The alert reported that the shrike had gone missing and then was refound, but when we arrived, the one birder on site hadn't seen it. Undeterred we walked down the track to view a little farm with a network of fences and I got onto the bird almost immediately perched on a fence post!
The bird then flew a short way as a party of young Dutch birders arrived. After a short wait, the shrike fell into a pattern of commuting between a wooden sign and a little patch of bushes and gave superb views.
Lesser Grey Shrike
This was the 53rd record for the Netherlands, and the 11th for Texel. As we were enjoying the shrike, a buzzard appeared over the trees on the horizon and was easily identified as a Honey-buzzard as it drifted north. This was followed shortly by a second bird to the north, which was being followed by an Osprey! It was turning into a classic day's birding with three Dutch ticks, but the best was to come.
We repaired to the Robenjager for lunch, with brimming enthusiasm. I had the famous fish and chips, washed down with a Texels beer. The owners are affable and love birders, and I normally visit at least once a day on my walk around the north of the island in October.
After lunch, we walked around the area just south of the lighthouse, getting nice views of a male Northern Wheatear. As we considered where to go next, our minds were made up for us, as news broke of a Greater Spotted Eagle moving north east from De Muy. We bombed south, aiming for some kind of vantage point, when the Texel Whatsapp alerted that it had been relocated just south of De Cocksdorp. We did a quick U-Turn and looking out of the passenger window, I shouted 'Eagle! Eagle!'
We got cracking views of the bird and some record shots, though mainly in silhouette. Other birders quickly arrived and enjoyed the bird. I was buzzing!
This was the 34th record of the species for the Netherlands, with almost half before 1970 but 16 records since the year 2000.
Northern Wheatear
Greater Spotted Eagle
We headed back for the 3.30pm ferry, with my Dutch list on 262 and probably my best trip to the country yet. I added a Great Black-backed Gull to the trip list from the ferry at Hoek Van Holland, making the total 134 species. I've already booked for the Dutch Birding weekend in mid October, and confident of more excellent birding.
Enjoying a coffee after jamming the Greater Spotted Eagle
Many Thanks to Wietze Janse, Leo Boon, Martijn Bot, Klaas de Jong, Marc Plomp, Ger Monterney.
Useful links:
Trip list
Species |
Scientific Name |
Date |
Location |
Count |
Mute Swan |
Cygnus olor |
|
|
|
Greylag Goose |
Anser anser |
|
|
|
Greater White-fronted Goose |
Anser albifrons |
24/05/2018 |
Hilversum - Bovenmeent |
1 |
Canada Goose |
Branta canadensis |
|
|
|
Barnacle Goose |
Branta leucopsis |
|
|
|
Dark-bellied Brent Goose |
Branta bernicla |
|
|
|
Common Shelduck |
Tadorna tadorna |
|
|
|
Red-crested Pochard |
Netta rufina |
|
|
|
Common Pochard |
Aythya ferina |
|
|
|
Tufted Duck |
Aythya fuligula |
|
|
|
Gadwall |
Anas strepera |
|
|
|
Eurasian Wigeon |
Anas penelope |
|
|
|
Northern Shoveler |
Anas clypeata |
|
|
|
Mallard |
Anas platyrhynchos |
|
|
|
Garganey |
Anas querquedula |
|
|
|
Great Cormorant |
Phalacrocorax carbo |
|
|
|
Great Egret |
Casmerodius albus |
25/05/2018 |
Ijmuiden |
1 |
Grey Heron |
Ardea cinerea |
|
|
|
Purple Heron |
Ardea purpurea |
24/05/2018 |
Hilversum - Bovenmeent |
1 |
White Stork |
Ciconia ciconia |
|
|
|
Eurasian Spoonbill |
Platalea leucorodia |
|
|
|
Greater Flamingo |
Phoenicopterus roseus |
24/05/2018 |
Veluwemeer, Flevoland |
6 |
Little Grebe |
Tachybaptus ruficollis |
|
|
|
Great Crested Grebe |
Podiceps cristatus |
|
|
|
European Honey Buzzard |
Pernis apivorus |
26/05/2018 |
Texel |
2 |
Western Marsh Harrier |
Circus aeruginosus |
|
|
|
Common Buzzard |
Buteo buteo |
|
|
|
Greater Spotted Eagle |
Aquila clanga |
26/05/2018 |
Texel |
1 |
Osprey |
Pandion haliaetus |
26/05/2018 |
Texel |
1 |
Common Kestrel |
Falco tinnunculus |
|
|
|
Water Rail |
Rallus aquaticus |
|
|
|
Common Moorhen |
Gallinula chloropus |
|
|
|
Eurasian Coot |
Fulica atra |
|
|
|
Eurasian Oystercatcher |
Haematopus ostralegus |
|
|
|
Pied Avocet |
Recurvirostra avosetta |
|
|
|
Little Ringed Plover |
Charadrius dubius |
25/05/2018 |
Zevenhuzen |
2 |
Common Ringed Plover |
Charadrius hiaticula |
|
|
|
Grey Plover |
Pluvialis squatarola |
|
|
|
Northern Lapwing |
Vanellus vanellus |
|
|
|
Red Knot |
Calidris canutus |
|
|
|
Sanderling |
Calidris alba |
|
|
|
Little Stint |
Calidris minuta |
23/05/2018 |
Texel, Westerkolk |
1 |
Temminck's Stint |
Calidris temminckii |
23/05/2018 |
Texel, Westerkolk |
3 |
Dunlin |
Calidris alpina |
|
|
|
Ruff |
Philomachus pugnax |
|
|
|
Black-tailed Godwit |
Limosa limosa |
|
|
|
Bar-tailed Godwit |
Limosa lapponica |
|
|
|
Eurasian Whimbrel |
Numenius phaeopus |
23/05/2018 |
Texel, De Staart |
1 |
Eurasian Curlew |
Numenius arquata |
|
|
|
Common Sandpiper |
Actitis hypoleucos |
|
|
|
Green Sandpiper |
Tringa ochropus |
|
|
|
Common Greenshank |
Tringa nebularia |
|
|
|
Wood Sandpiper |
Tringa glareola |
23/05/2018 |
Texel, Westerkolk |
1 |
Common Redshank |
Tringa totanus |
|
|
|
Ruddy Turnstone |
Arenaria interpres |
|
|
|
Black-headed Gull |
Chroicocephalus ridibundus |
|
|
|
Common Gull |
Larus canus |
|
|
|
Lesser Black-backed Gull |
Larus fuscus |
|
|
|
Herring Gull |
Larus argentatus |
|
|
|
Great Black-backed Gull |
Larus marinus |
26/05/2018 |
Hoek van Holland |
1 |
Black Tern |
Chlidonias niger |
25/05/2018 |
Zevenhuzen |
1 adult |
Sandwich Tern |
Sterna sandvicensis |
|
|
|
Common Tern |
Sterna hirundo |
|
|
|
Stock Dove |
Columba oenas |
|
|
|
Wood Pigeon |
Columba palumbus |
|
|
|
Collared Dove |
Streptopelia decaocto |
|
|
|
Common Cuckoo |
Cuculus canorus |
|
|
|
Common Swift |
Apus apus |
|
|
|
Great Spotted Woodpecker |
Dendrocopos major |
|
|
|
Lesser Grey Shrike |
Lanius minor |
26/05/2018 |
Texel |
1 |
Eurasian Jay |
Garrulus glandarius |
|
|
|
Eurasian Magpie |
Pica pica |
|
|
|
Jackdaw |
Corvus monedula |
|
|
|
Carrion Crow |
Corvus corone |
|
|
|
Firecrest |
Regulus ignicapilla |
24/05/2018 |
Vierhouten |
1 |
Blue Tit |
Cyanistes caeruleus |
|
|
|
Great Tit |
Parus major |
|
|
|
Crested Tit |
Lophophanes cristatus |
24/05/2018 |
Vierhouten |
1 |
Coal Tit |
Periparus ater |
|
|
|
Willow Tit |
Poecile montanus |
24/05/2018 |
Raalte |
1 |
Marsh Tit |
Poecile palustris |
24/05/2018 |
Vierhouten |
1 |
Bearded Reedling |
Panurus biarmicus |
|
|
|
Woodlark |
Lullula arborea |
26/05/2018 |
Castricum |
1 |
Eurasian Skylark |
Alauda arvensis |
|
|
|
Sand Martin |
Riparia riparia |
|
|
|
Barn Swallow |
Hirundo rustica |
|
|
|
House Martin |
Delichon urbicum |
|
|
|
Wood Warbler |
Phylloscopus sibilatrix |
24/05/2018 |
Leuvenum |
1 |
Common Chiffchaff |
Phylloscopus collybita |
|
|
|
Iberian Chiffchaff |
Phylloscopus ibericus |
26/05/2018 |
Texel |
|
Willow Warbler |
Phylloscopus trochilus |
|
|
|
Lesser Whitethroat |
Sylvia curruca |
25/05/2018 |
Kennemermeer, Ijmuiden |
1 |
Common Whitethroat |
Sylvia communis |
|
|
|
Garden Warbler |
Sylvia borin |
|
|
|
Blackcap |
Sylvia atricapilla |
|
|
|
Grasshopper Warbler |
Locustella naevia |
25/05/2018 |
Kennemermeer, Ijmuiden |
1 |
River Warbler |
Locustella fluviatilis |
24/05/2018 |
Raalte |
|
Savi's Warbler |
Locustella luscinioides |
25/05/2018 |
Zevenhuzen |
3 |
Icterine Warbler |
Hippolais icterina |
24/05/2018 |
Veluwemeer, Flevoland |
1 |
Marsh Warbler |
Acrocephalus palustris |
|
|
|
Reed Warbler |
Acrocephalus scirpaceus |
|
|
|
Sedge Warbler |
Acrocephalus schoenobaenus |
|
|
|
Great Reed Warbler |
Acrocephalus arundinaceus |
24/05/2018 |
Lutkemeerpolder, Amsterdam |
1 |
Eurasian Nuthatch |
Sitta europaea |
|
|
|
Short-toed Treecreeper |
Certhia brachydactyla |
|
|
|
Wren |
Troglodytes troglodytes |
|
|
|
Common Starling |
Sturnus vulgaris |
|
|
|
Common Blackbird |
Turdus merula |
|
|
|
Song Thrush |
Turdus philomelos |
|
|
|
Spotted Flycatcher |
Muscicapa striata |
|
|
|
European Robin |
Erithacus rubecula |
|
|
|
Common Nightingale |
Luscinia megarhynchos |
|
|
|
Bluethroat |
Luscinia svecica |
|
|
|
Black Redstart |
Phoenicurus ochruros |
23/05/2018 |
Den Helder |
1 |
Common Redstart |
Phoenicurus phoenicurus |
25/05/2018 |
Kennemermeer, Ijmuiden |
1 |
European Stonechat |
Saxicola rubicola |
|
|
|
Northern Wheatear |
Oenanthe oenanthe |
|
|
|
Red-breasted Flycatcher |
Ficedula parva |
24/05/2018 |
Undisclosed site, Gelderland |
1 male |
Pied Flycatcher |
Ficedula hypoleuca |
24/05/2018 |
Vierhouten |
1 female |
Dunnock |
Prunella modularis |
|
|
|
House Sparrow |
Passer domesticus |
|
|
|
Tree Sparrow |
Passer montanus |
|
|
|
Blue-headed Wagtail |
Motacilla flava |
|
|
|
White Wagtail |
Motacilla alba |
|
|
|
Tree Pipit |
Anthus trivialis |
24/05/2018 |
Vierhouten |
1 |
Meadow Pipit |
Anthus pratensis |
|
|
|
Common Chaffinch |
Fringilla coelebs |
|
|
|
Greenfinch |
Chloris chloris |
|
|
|
European Goldfinch |
Carduelis carduelis |
|
|
|
Common Linnet |
Carduelis cannabina |
|
|
|
Common Rosefinch |
Carpodacus erythrinus |
26/05/2018 |
Castricum |
1 male |
Hawfinch |
Coccothraustes coccothraustes |
|
|
|
Yellowhammer |
Emberiza citrinella |
|
|
|
Reed Bunting |
Emberiza schoeniclus |
|
|
|